EVERYDAY DRINKING: ARMAGNAC, ANTHROPIC, AND ARTIE BUCCO

BY JASON WILSON | EVERYDAY DRINKING | NOVEMBER 10, 2026

Jason Wilson tasted the four armagnacs in Le Barreur’s Les Tresors du Chateau de Mons, The Forgotten Grapes Series, and called them “truly outstanding”.

Four nearly forgotten Armagnac grape varieties, replanted at Chateau de Mons by the Gers Chamber of Agriculture and the BNIA in the early 1990s, then distilled separately and left in cask. Clairette de Gascogne, Meslier St Francois and Jurancon from 1996, Plant de Graisse from 1997. One cask each, bottled at full proof in 2026.

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Armagnac, Anthropic, and Artie Bucco

Le Barreur is imported into the United States by PM Spirits.

Imbibe: Passion Project Nicolas Palazzi and the art of selling to 50 people

We’ve never had a market,” says Nicolas Paul-Marie Palazzi, Miami-based owner of PM Spirits. “Fifteen years ago there wasn’t a market, and there’s no market now.”

This seems an odd thing for the founder of a successful spirits-importing company to say. But it’s true in one way: Palazzi doesn’t really identify markets; he identifies bottles. He finds spirits he loves, brings them into the country, and then goes looking for the handful of people who will appreciate them, too.

Photo by DAVID SALAZAR

Palazzi, who moved to New York from his native France in 2004, has emerged as one of the most admired spirits importers among aficionados and collectors, almost to the point of cultishness. His portfolio features outlier Cognacs, Armagnacs, single-malt whiskies, and big, funky rums. These include unicorns like Jacky Navarre Cognac, L’Encantada Armagnac, and Hampden Estate rums.

“The French are often the most traditional, and they like rules, whether it’s cheese or honey or spirits or whatever,” says Monique Huston, vice president of spirits portfolio at Winebow, an importer and distributor of wines and spirits. “Nicolas just kind of went anti-French.”

Palazzi was born and raised in Bordeaux, where familiarity with fine wines and brandy is all but mandatory. His mother’s family makes wine with their small business in Côtes de Bourg, and one of his grandfather’s closest friends was a well-regarded Cognac distiller. “At Sunday family lunches at my grandparents’ house,” Palazzi recalls, “we’d finish with Cognac made by this gentleman.” Palazzi wasn’t immediately drawn to the world of beverages. He left home to study engineering, and, after engineering school, worked several years as an environmental engineer for the French national electric utility company EDF. When a friend invited him to visit New York City, his life took a new trajectory. He left his unsatisfying job, moved across the Atlantic to join his friend (now his wife and mother to their two children), and found a new job managing a medical research lab. He had a respectable technical career but still didn’t feel content, and he eventually realized that he should build a life around something he actually cared about. “I would get up in the morning and just feel upset for no reason,” he says. “It wasn’t healthy.”

He considered his options. “My basic thoughts were, what are the things that I genuinely like to do?” he says. “And I liked wine and spirits.”

His interest led him first to hanging out, then working on weekends at Jean-Luc Le Du’s boutique wine shop in Manhattan’s West Village. He sharpened his knowledge of wine through seminars, blind-tasting groups, and connections with the sommeliers who patronized the shop.

New York impressed him with its wide diversity of available wines, especially compared to Bordeaux. He was particularly drawn to the bottles from smaller, family-run vineyards. But he found the spirits shelves lacked that depth and were dominated by larger, corporate brands. Palazzi’s instincts told him that New York would welcome curated, lesser-known spirits. So he quit his laboratory job and took his first, tentative steps into the beverage-importing business.

The standard advice for building a successful business is this: Identify demand in a market, then satisfy it. Palazzi didn’t follow that approach. His business model, if it can be called that, was to seek out spirits he liked—made as naturally and with as little intervention as possible—and then strike an import deal with the producer. Put the bottles on the store shelves, and assume fellow lovers of spirits would eventually find and buy them. While his plan was vague at best, he did have a short list of contacts, ranging from producers he knew in France to buyers he’d met at Le Du’s wine shop.

Palazzi flew home to France and visited his grandfather’s friend, the Cognac maker, who became a mentor. “His operation was super tiny, just one dude, but he was real artisanal and really good at what he did,” he said. “I approached him and said, ‘I like spirits. And I’m thinking that I would like to do something around it, and I don’t know anything about it, really.’”

With his mentor’s advice and introductions to a few other distillers, Palazzi launched PM Spirits, named to honor his father, Paul-Marie Palazzi. His first import was Guillon-Painturaud Hors d’Age, a Grande Champagne Cognac, provided by his family’s friend. Back in New York, he took to the streets with bottles in a bag, talking with restaurateurs and liquor shop owners one at a time, hoping to convince them to stock his product. One agreed, then another, and in time he sought out other spirits worthy of attention, including his second import, a Cognac from the house of Paul Beau.

He learned the mechanics of importing the hard way: by screwing up. He underpriced bottles and sold them at a loss. He bought inventory without understanding cash flow. He learned about duties, invoices, and the peculiar financial limbo in which an importer pays suppliers and the government long before customers pay him. “I’ve done a lot of things that did not work out,” he says. “But none of them were fatal.”

A central problem was finding someone to distribute these obscure bottles—a common lament among smaller importers. So Palazzi did what became a recurring feature of his career: When the conventional system didn’t work for him, he worked around it. He began distributing his own spirits in New York, selling bottles himself. To this day, PM Spirits consists of two businesses: a New York wholesale operation, in which his company self-distributes the products in the state, and an importing business that supplies distributors throughout much of the rest of the nation. (Palazzi and his family moved from Brooklyn to Miami in 2019.)

Bit by bit, drinkers started to pay attention. Palazzi returned to France and discovered Armagnacs and Calvados that he thought worthy of attention, and began importing those as well.

He visits each distillery to assure himself that it’s managed by artisans, not accountants. “We meet the people—we need to be like-minded individuals,” Palazzi says. It’s telling that his online directory of imported products often features pictures of the producers, not shots of stills or barrel houses. “It’s meaningful,” says Kate Perry, U.S. market manager for La Maison & Velier, who met Palazzi in 2014 and has partnered with him in importing and marketing his spirits in the U.S. “They’re real—real farmers, real people, real communities. A very personal thing, which is not often the case with spirits brands.”

His explorations have taken him far beyond French brandies, and his portfolio has expanded to include whiskies, rums, agave spirits, eau de vie, and liqueur—all ticking the boxes Palazzi has set out, foremost among them being that he likes drinking them. Palazzi has also partnered with likeminded others in collaborative ventures. “We see if we can work together and do something that’s cool and tastes very good, and that I can afford,” Palazzi says.

Perhaps the best known of his “collabs” is the partnership with Equipo Navazos, a boutique sherry producer in Spain. Palazzi came across this sherry at a wine dinner organized by Levi Dalton in New York, and later toured Spanish bodegas with co-founders Eduardo Ojeda and Jesus Barquin. Ojeda and Barquin took an approach to sherry similar to that embraced by Palazzi: find and market excellent, distinctive sherries crafted by independent producers.

The trio soon partnered on a line of spirits, starting with Spanish brandy that had been aged in sherry casks in hot, dry Spain—a process that transformed a middling brandy into something worthy of a snifter. They later applied the same method to other spirits, including gin, Spanish whiskey, and rum, all sold under the Navazos-Palazzi label. Their rum in particular attracted fans. A Caribbean rum aged five years in ex-bourbon casks and then further in oloroso sherry barrels for more than a decade, it was praised by critics for its notes of quince, walnut, and caramelized roasted meat. In one review, the taster concluded that the rum evokes a full, festive meal in a glass. Palazzi has also released his own branded line of PM Spirits, which includes Cobrafire, launched in 2016. It’s an unaged Armagnac, produced with Domaine d’Espérance, sold as an eau de vie de raisin.

A “drink less, drink better” ethos has spread in recent years, as spirits fans consume less but are willing to spend more on higher-caliber bottles. In some ways, the buying public has caught up with Palazzi, who has become an inadvertent avatar of this movement. There is something almost stubbornly old-fashioned about his approach. It’s not exactly a recipe for building a mass market. But that’s never really been the point. “I don’t have any marketing money,” Palazzi says with a shrug. Finding great spirits is easy, he says. Getting people to try them (and, importantly, buy them) is much harder. “So the only thing that I can do is put a product on the market that looks cool and tastes very good, then try and convince people it’s worth their attention and their money.”

“I think it’s gotten to the point that putting the PM Spirits stamp on something says Nick has tasted this,” says Huston, “and that means it’s really good quality. Maybe his audience is 50 people.” And she appreciates that Palazzi’s approach is essentially: “How about I bring this beautiful thing in for those 50 people?”

Vinepair: The 30 Best Rums for 2025

Rum continues to win hearts and fill jiggers and glasses by virtue of being one of the world’s most versatile and diverse spirits. Distilled from sugar cane juice, molasses, and other derivatives, it is crafted in column and pot stills, and matured in climates ranging from the humid Caribbean to cooler, continental warehouses. The result is a category that stretches from grassy agricoles and funky, high-ester bottlings to ultra-aged expressions that rival any whiskey.

That breadth is just as evident at the bar: Rum is vital to classics like the Daiquiri, Mojito, and Mai Tai, and central to modern creations like the Kingston Negroni. Of course, there are dedicated, top-shelf sippers, as well as spiced shooters, which accounted for more than half of the rum sold in the U.S. last year.

With all due respect to the latter style, we did not consider flavored selections for our annual rum roundup. Instead, we focused on the diverse range of examples outlined above, tasting roughly 100 bottles from almost two dozen nations to compile this list of the 30 best rums to drink right now.

The 30 Best Rums to Drink in 2025

The Best Rum for Cocktails

Transcontinental Rum Line High Seas

As the old line goes, “what one rum can’t do, three rums can,” and that’s exactly the proposition with this blend of Panamanian, Jamaican, and Martinique distillates. Bottled at 45 percent ABV, High Seas delivers savory, vegetal, and lightly sweet notes, alongside bursts of tropical fruit, spice, and coffee. Expressive but never overwhelming, it offers plenty of personality without threatening to steal the show — making it equally at home in a Daiquiri, Mai Tai, or more modern creations. At $35 per bottle, it’s a top-tier option that’ll basically run you the same amount as two drinks at a bar.

Average price: $35
Rating: 93

The Best Rums Under $100

The Spirit of Haiti Clairin Vaval

Bottled at a precise 53.5 percent ABV, this Clairin is produced by Distillerie Arawaks — owned and operated by Fritz Vaval, whose family has been in the farm distillery business for close to 80 years. Fermented using ambient yeasts and distilled on a proprietary still, the nose juxtaposes papaya and mango with salty umami aromas. The palate commits to more fruity and vegetal notes, with an enjoyably abrasive finish that speaks to the hands-on, traditional practices that led to its creation.

Average price: $50
Rating: 94

Shakara 12 Year Thai Rum

Launched in early 2024, this Thai rum is made from local molasses and runs through a column still before spending 12 years in ex-bourbon casks. Spice leads the profile, with bright accents of lemongrass and lime leaf building over a classic molasses core. Expressive and vibrant, it’s a great example of quality Southeast Asian spirits increasingly making their way to our market.

Average price: $59
Rating: 93

Alambique Serrano 3 Años Oaxacan Rum

Distilled from Java varietal cane juice and aged just over three years in new French oak, this blend of pot and Krassel column distillates arrives at 46.1 percent ABV. The profile is distinctly spiced, with ginger, nutmeg, and raisin notes evoking winter desserts and holiday delights — a vivid reminder that Oaxacan spirits extend well beyond mezcal.

Average price: $64
Rating: 93

Papalin Jamaica 5 Year High Ester Rum

Blended from Worthy Park, Long Pond, and Hampden distillates, this 5-year-old Jamaican rum is pot-distilled, aged in ex-bourbon casks, and bottled at 57 percent ABV. Aromas of overripe fruit and warm spice lead the way, with pepper, banana skin, and assertive heat defining the palate. While not the most intense rum Jamaica has to offer, it’s a complex, lively pour and a great intro to high-ester rum.

Average price: $67
Rating: 93

Privateer Rum The Queen’s Share

This Massachusetts rum revives the old Cognac tradition of collecting the “seconds” — the transitional cut between hearts and tails — and distilling everything a second time for added depth. Aged at least four years in a mix of new and used American oak, the barrels are then blended and re-casked for additional maturation. Bottled at cask strength, it delivers burnt sugar, coconut, and vanilla with remarkable balance. Approachable yet simultaneously complex, it stands as a benchmark American rum.

Average price: $70
Rating: 93

The Best Rums Over $100

Hampden Estate Pagos Jamaican Rum Batch 3

Aged entirely in former oloroso sherry casks from Bodegas Fundador, the third batch of Pagos builds on Hampden’s signature high-ester intensity with oxidative depth and dried fruit character. Bottled at 52 percent ABV, it delivers walnut, clove, and brandied cherry, alongside cocoa, honey, and citrus. The palate is nuanced, with savory depth meeting flashes of freshness.

Average price: $113
Rating: 94

Isautier Rhum Agricole 16 Year

Distilled in 2006 and aged 16 years in tropical conditions, this Reunion release was bottled at 59 percent ABV with just 3,790 bottles produced. The profile is bold yet refined, opening with dried fruits, warm spice, and citrus zest, then following with caramelized sugar and herbal accents. A singular agricole, it underscores Reunion’s credentials as one of the world’s most compelling — and still underappreciated — rum regions.

Average price: $144
Rating: 94

Inked Magazine, Issue 3, 2025: Tattoos & Spirits, A Match Made in Culture Heaven

BY JOEY SKLADANY

It may be stereotypical to assume that a bartender in a dive bar will serve you a drink with an ink-adorned forearm, but the parallels between tattoos and alcohol have been drawn far generations, from drunken pirates to beer-slinging bikers. After all, the rebellious nature of knocking back libations and rocking permanent body art often go hand in hand. And for some spirit companies, tattoos are now a major component of the brand ethos.

In an oversaturated beverage industry where everything has been seemingly done before, there are a handful of businesses that have gone above and beyond, both past and present, to challenge marketing norms and redefine the connection they have with consumers, especially those who value the creativity and authenticity that transcend the liquor itself.

These are the three that continue to lead the pack, one sip and tattoo at a time.

Labels that Inspire

France-based L'Encantada Armagnac brandy took tattoo appreciation in a unique direction by commissioning artists to replicate their intricate sketches in label form.

Nicolas Palazzi, owner of PM Spirits and L'Encantada's U.S. importer, championed the idea and partnership after getting his first tattoo, which memorialized his daughter Jane's health struggles with epilepsy. This evolved into other symbolic designs and subsequent ink sessions, which then inspired the entrepreneur to extend this art form to the bottle through an annual tattoo series that features up-and-coming talent.

"Tattoos are very important to me. They are also, in my mind, a very 'American' thing. Here, it felt like we were bridging both cultures: making old-school French spirits cooler by bringing it some American flavor," Palazzi says, adding, "From a packaging standpoint, I associated the American flavor with tattoos."

This artistic endeavor has resulted in collaborations with the renowned Matt Adamson, who completed Palazzi's first tattoo, as well as Laura Leonello, who concocted a "Beacon of Hope" label in 2021 to capture life after the peak of COVlD-19.

Whisky Advocate: 12 Bottles Dad Actually Wants This Father's Day

From rare single malts to affordable and accessible American whiskeys—and three non-whiskies—these Father’s Day picks are guaranteed crowd-pleasers

Your dad has enough ties, novelty T-shirts, coffee mugs, and socks. Upgrade your gifting game and get him something that will replace a forced smile with a wide grin: a wonderful bottle. Whether he’s a seasoned sipper or a whisky neophyte, we’ve selected 12 standout spirits ranging from special scotch single malts to cult-favorite bourbons to accessible, underrated ryes—and a few exceptional whisky-adjacent options—all guaranteed to earn you favorite-child status. Here’s hoping whatever you buy him, Dad will crack the bottle and pour a glass for you, too.

L'Encantada Tattoo Series Grape Brandy Finished in Ex Bourbon Casks

L'Encantada L'Esprit Armagnac, ABVs And SRPs Vary

If dad likes armagnac, a bottle of L’Encantada will make his year. Prices and proofs vary by vintages, though there’s something available at most price points.

L'encantada XO - Cigar Reserve

The widely available XO Cigar Blend ($123) has a super nice body and texture and pairs well with cigars, while the Tattoo Series 3 ($169) boasts a beautiful label and liquid—the brandy's been finished in Weller barrels.

Bloomberg: Incredible Jamaican Rums That Truly Bring the Fruity Funk

Summer rummin’

Last month, I finally had the opportunity to check off a box on my spirits-pro bucket list: experiencing a Jamaican dunder pit.

A Jamaican what pit? In brief, it’s a giant, mucky vat used by some rum makers in which leftovers—fibrous bits of sugar cane, yeast residue and other solids and liquids remaining in the still—are dumped and allowed to slowly ferment with wild yeast, like a sourdough starter on steroids. Sour mash bourbons also use a portion of spent grains after distillation to jump-start a new fermentation process, so this may sound familiar to whiskey fans.

The Hampden distillery, operating since 1753, is a hit among high-end rum collectors.Source: Hampden Estate Rums

Yet the dunder pit takes it to whole new level. I can see how rumors start about bat heads and other animal remains tossed into the muck—though I’m assured these are just tall tales.

Frankly, it’s not cute. The murky, ominous-looking sludge bubbles and foams like a cauldron, and exudes a wildly funky, aged-cheese-and-molasses-y stench that could knock you right off your barstool. But it was an absolute delight.

If only this image was scratch ’n’ sniff: Hampden’s dunder pit.Photographer: Kara Newman

That aroma represents the magic that gives Jamaican rum its signature “funk,” that overripe-banana-like tone that distillers refer to as “hogo.” It’s also an essential step for creating esters, organic compounds that contribute to a rum’s aromas and flavors—and, many rum lovers say, the more the better.

Jamaican rums in particular are often described as “high-ester rum,” and while that’s not universally true, or even unique to Jamaica (you’ll find great examples in Barbados, Martinique, etc.), that high-ester punch is easy to recognize. If you want to learn more, Cocktail Wonk’s Matt Pietrek has a great deep-dive explainer.

Because spirits can be presented in shiny bottles, it’s easy to forget that they’re agricultural products. But driving past Jamaica’s vast sugarcane fields and experiencing a dunder pit up close reminded me how important rum and sugar cane are to the island’s cultural and agricultural heritage as well as to its economy.

Right now, Jamaica is in the throes of an ongoing dispute about what can and cannot be called “Jamaican rum.” Of note, last year Jamaica’s Intellectual Property Office approved an amendment to the geographical indication (GI) designation, stating that rum distilled in Jamaica but aged elsewhere is no longer eligible to be recognized as Jamaican rum. However, parties who want to age Jamaican rum outside Jamaica are pushing back, and the legal battle continues.

Much of the furor boils down to transparency, explained Peppie Grant, manager of Hampden Estate, as he guided a tour of the distillery. His view: “As long as they’re not trying to claim that the flavor comes from aging outside Jamaica, it’s OK,” he said. After visiting the relatively small Hampden as well as rum giant Appleton Estate, and sampling countless other Jamaica rums, I can understand why producers would be so protective of one of their key cultural exports.

Returning home to New York after getting dunder-struck, I looked around and more fully felt the Caribbean-inspired cocktail moment we’re in. From the lauded daiquiris at Momofuku’s Bar Kabawa (celebrating all of the Caribbean, with a special hug to Barbados from chef Paul Carmichael) to the new Red Bar within the Printemps department store (focusing on Gregory Gourdet’s Haitian heritage and Caribbean/French spirits broadly) to Afro-Caribbean drinks at Tatiana by Kwame Onwuachi (where Bloomberg’s food editor is still dreaming about the mushrooms), it's exciting to see ingredients such as sorel and clairin—not to mention lots of Caribbean rum—claiming a long-overdue spotlight.

Jamaica’s rum inevitably finds a place among these drink menus, just as it’s finding a place among the cabinets of high-end spirits collectors. And when summer hits, it feels doubly right to pour.

So here are a few key bottles for those who want to experience a bit of hogo without hovering over an odoriferous dunder pit (unless that’s your kind of thing, of course—you’ll find no funk-shaming here). These rums are fruity and approachable, with just a whisper of Voldemort funk-that-shall-not-be-named.

Hampden Estate Great House 2024 ($131)

It’s unabashedly intense and funky, with tons of tropical fruit (think coconut, mango) on nose and palate. Aging in emptied bourbon casks adds a fleeting hint of dark chocolate. While visiting the distillery, I had a chance to sample the forthcoming vintage 2025 bottling, which was newly pulled from the barrel. It tasted like bananas foster, but crisp and bone-dry. I’m looking forward to the day it makes its way stateside.

Transcontinental Rum Line: Jamaica 2016 ($66)

I tried this bottling, which is part of a lineup of world rums from independent bottler La Maison & Velier, at last year’s New York Rum Fest, and it put me in mind of caramelized banana and grilled pineapple with lots of fresh-ground black pepper. The seafaring graphics on the label definitely inspire a bit of wanderlust, but also speak to how it’s made on two continents: distilled and aged for four years in Jamaica, then matured one more year in Europe. Wherever it lands on the “Is it or isn’t it Jamaican?” GI-designation battle, it’s a memorable sip worth seeking out.

vinepair: The 20 Best Mezcals for 2025

In many ways, moving from tequila into the expansive world of mezcal is like developing a taste for Scotch following a fascination with bourbon. Each duo shares the same parent category (agave spirits and whiskey, respectively), employs similar production techniques, and will often be found close to each other, if not side by side, in liquor stores.

Of course, there are limits to this analogy, and the aim is not to frame mezcal or Scotch as superior to their siblings. But there’s also no denying that the regional diversity within these two categories and, yes, the occasional presence of smoke, place them among the world’s most complex spirits — distillates that aficionados would often much rather enjoy neat rather than in cocktails.

Whether the destination for mezcal is a copita or coupe by way of cocktail shaker is ultimately the buyer’s decision. Either way, quality and value for money are of paramount importance, and those can be tricky things to decipher from bottle labels or even brand websites alone. So we’ve done the hard work for you, tasting through dozens of expressions, and digging into individual production details to offer this list of the 20 best mezcals to drink in 2025.

The Best Mezcals Over $100

Palenqueros Madrecuishe Valente Garcia

Another hands-on, small-batch expression, the roasted Madrecuishe agave for this 933-bottle release was crushed by mallet before being double-distilled in copper pots. Bottled at 48.9 percent ABV, it offers a bright, minerally wet rock nose, with hints of citrus and savory smoke. The palate that follows is layered with sweetness and roasted nut notes.

Average price: $104
Rating: 94

Cinco Sentidos Arroqueño Tío Pedro

A stunning and considerable labor of love, Tío Pedro Hernandez produced this batch in Santa Catarina Minas using traditional clay pots. Before he could do so, he first had to source the Arroqueño agave from over 50 miles away, in the verdant hills of Sola de Vega. After roasting for more than five days, he (along with some help from friends) mashed the agave by hand using mazos. All that effort truly paid off: The nose darts between ripe tropical fruit, yogurt, and root vegetables. The palate is at once sweet and minerally, the wet rock notes eventually leading to pleasant, dialed-down smoke, and a finish that drinks well below its almost 50 percent ABV.

Average price: $136
Rating: 95

NETA Espadin-Bicuixe Heriberto García Sánchez

Combining a 60/40 blend of wild Bicuixe and homegrown Espadín, this double-distilled ensamble flips a common mezcal experience on its head, beginning with savory, almost meaty aromas, and following with expressive green fruit and chalky minerality on the palate. With more time in glass, the aromas and flavors meld into one, just as other complex notes emerge, ensuring the drinking experience is ever evolving and endlessly enjoyable.

Average price: $149
Rating: 94

vinepair: Tequila Isn’t the Only Spirit to Use Additives. Why Aren’t We Talking About the Others?

WORDS:SUSANNAH SKIVER BARTON

Spirits additives have been in the news a lot lately, almost solely in relation to tequila. A clash between the independently run Additive Free Alliance and the Consejo Regulador del Tequila (CRT), tequila’s regulatory body, has chilled the growing movement for transparency in the category, and currently, per the CRT, no brands may legally discuss use or non-use of additives — which are legal — on their packaging or in their marketing. The stalemate seems likely to continue without a satisfying resolution unless and until the regulator and the industry can reach a compromise.

Meanwhile, many other spirits use additives, too, almost always without explicit disclosure: Cognac, rum, Scotch, and many more. Sometimes they employ caramel coloring to make a brand appear consistent from batch to batch, or to give the impression of greater cask influence. They may add sugar to sweeten a spirit or impart a rounder, more pleasing mouthfeel. Other additives can mimic the impact of prolonged oak aging, or layer on flavors to simulate more complexity.

The conflict in tequila has cast the issue of additives in black-and-white terms. For many spirits enthusiasts, additives are seen as deceptive, a way to cheat the natural processes at play in fermentation, distillation, and maturation. But that binary framework isn’t the only way of understanding the issue.

“Additives are not necessarily bad,” says Nicolas Palazzi, founder of PM Spirits, which imports tequila, rum, Cognac, and other spirits. “Yes, most of the time the product is subpar and therefore to make it more palatable … you need to put makeup on it.” But, he explains, there are other examples when using additives “makes a better product.” The key difference, Palazzi says, is “the way they’re used and why they’re used.”

Examining the legacy and tradition of additives across the spirits world can shed some light on the debate, even as it remains largely unsettled. The core issues at play — transparency and consumer choice — aren’t going away. And potential solutions could take a number of forms.

Whiskey’s History of Additives

Additive use in spirits was historically quite common. In the 19th-century United States, rectifiers added everything from prune juice to turpentine to their “whiskey” — often badly made or unaged spirit — to make it appear older or taste better. The practice directly led to the passage of the Bottled-in-Bond Act of 1897, which set the first standards for truth in labeling and made it clear to consumers that the whiskey in the bottle was unadulterated. Today, bourbon and other straight whiskeys are not allowed to contain any additives. Non-straight whiskeys and blends, including blends of straight whiskeys, may include up to 2.5 percent allowed coloring and flavoring materials without disclosure.

These are settled questions of law, and for the most part, whiskey drinkers aren’t clamoring for more information from brands — although there was a period, circa 2014–2015, when added flavoring in Templeton Rye became a flashpoint for what was then a new conversation about transparency in whiskey. A commentator named Steve Ury wrote a blog post at the time digging into whether ryes that did not include a “straight” designation might include added flavor. The exercise is still valid a decade, and many dozens of other brands, later, but doesn’t seem to stir up much conversation currently.

The additive that many drinkers do want to know about is caramel coloring, which is widely permitted outside straight American whiskey, including in heavily regulated categories like Scotch. It’s almost a guarantee that every blended Scotch, Irish, and Canadian whisky includes caramel for consistent color, as do many single malts and premium offerings, but there’s no requirement for disclosure. Still, some brands now tout “no added color” as part of their labeling and marketing — often alongside “non-chill filtered,” a Bat Signal for whiskey connoisseurs who believe the common practice has a negative impact on a whiskey’s flavor.

The Wide World of Rum Additives

Rum can contain caramel coloring, too, and often many other additives, though it is not a total free-for-all everywhere. Several rums are made under the rules of an established geographical indication (GI), including Jamaican, Cuban, and Demerara rums, as well as rhum agricole. GI-regulated rums typically eschew most additives, with the exceptions of caramel coloring — which is broadly permitted — and sugar, which several GIs allow. A major exception is the GI for Venezuelan rum, which allows “caramel, fresh or dry fruit macerations, bark, maceration of oak chips, and other approved substances.”

“If a brand puts that level of transparency and disclosure out there and the enthusiasts like it, they’re going to tell their friends. [They may be] half a percentage of your business, but they’re the ones talking to bartenders and bar managers.”

Beyond GI regulations, rum producers only have to work within the constraints of their permitting authority and those of the places they export to, which broadly means additives of all kinds may be used. Sugar is perhaps most common, not only because there’s historical precedent for it in many rum traditions, but because it’s widely favored by consumer palates.

“They’ve been [adding sugar] for hundreds of years,” says Matt Pietrek, rum expert and author of several books, including “Modern Caribbean Rum.” “Not in any attempt to deceive people; it’s more like, this tastes good and people like it.”

Palazzi agrees. “Most of the rums that people like are sweet, because they’re sweetened,” he says. “A lot of people feel that if the rum is dry there’s something wrong with it.”

Though Pietrek notes that he prefers dry, additive-free rums, he’s in favor of letting each producer make the rum they want. And he’d love to see producers across the rum world adopt some kind of transparency measure, like nutritional labeling, to give consumers more information about what’s in the spirit.

“Consumers can vote with their dollars,” he says, pointing out how Planteray includes a host of detailed information on the label, including how much dosage (added sugar) it includes. “Great! Literally any producer can do this.”

A Legacy in Cognac

For Cognac, in addition to caramel coloring, there’s a long tradition of adding both sugar and a substance called boisé, sometimes described as oak extract. All three additives may be aged before being blended with the spirit, though they aren’t necessarily. The use of boisé dates back to at least the 19th century and is rooted in what Amy Pasquet, one half of the husband-and-wife team at Cognac Pasquet, describes as a “waste-not, want-not” mentality. After distilling the spirit, wood chips left over from coopering were put into the still with water, their tannins serving to strip the interior of gunk. That liquid, rich with woody flavors, was then used to proof down the aged Cognac.

“Instead of saying we don’t add anything, we say everything is natural. Whiskey people really want that on the label.”

Nowadays, most boisé is produced commercially rather than in-house, and it’s likely widely employed in the leading houses. Many experts say boisé is not just an imitation of maturation. Ury, who shifted his attention from whiskey to brandy many years ago and now runs the Facebook group Serious Brandy, notes that it “may well be responsible for a lot of the rancio notes that people favor in Cognac.”

Although there are several independent, small Cognac houses — like Pasquet — that don’t use boisé or other additives, the substance’s longstanding legacy is respected by many connoisseurs like Ury. “It’s not as if [brands using boisé] are scam artists or something — it’s just a different way of doing things,” he says.

The rise in openly additive-free Cognac is relatively recent, spurred by whiskey enthusiasts migrating their attention to French brandy. Though it once made its own boisé, Pasquet stopped using additives in 2011; labels now state that the Cognac is hand-bottled, non-chill filtered, non-dosed, and natural color. “Instead of saying we don’t add anything, we say everything is natural,” Pasquet explains, noting that the brand’s German importer encouraged the labeling disclosure. “Whiskey people really want that on the label.”

Pasquet and its ilk represent a tiny fraction of overall Cognac volumes, but consumers’ desire for more information has penetrated even the big houses. A cohort of industry players that includes the likes of Hennessy, Rémy Martin, and Martell have agreed to voluntarily disclose ingredients, excluding boisé, on their labels or via QR code going forward. (VinePair reached out to the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac, the industry’s trade group, for clarification on why boisé is not included but has not received a response.)

How Many People Really Care, Though?

In spite of the furor of the additive debate among spirits enthusiasts, the issue isn’t even on the radar for the vast majority of consumers. “The people who really care are going to look for transparency and how the product is made and whether there are additives,” says Palazzi. “But there’s a lot of people who couldn’t care less.”

The average Hennessy VS drinker isn’t checking the label to see if there’s added sugar. Captain Morgan fans, if they stop to think about it, would likely accept without hesitation that the rum is full of flavoring. Only the hobbyists, those who self-identify as geeks, are concerned about whether their whiskey or brandy or rum has caramel coloring.

But although this group is a small minority, it’s often quite vocal — and usually willing to spend more on a bottle than the casual drinker. To a brand looking to cultivate that kind of engaged customer, playing up additive-free status can be a savvy marketing move.

“If a brand puts that level of transparency and disclosure out there and the enthusiasts like it, they’re going to tell their friends,” Pietrek says. “[They may be] half a percentage of your business, but they’re the ones talking to bartenders and bar managers. If you give them what they want, they will be your de facto brand ambassadors.”

And eventually, the movement that starts among the geeks can ripple outward. “Twenty-five years ago, no one cared about caramel in Scotch — that wasn’t a thing,” Ury says. Then enthusiasts started questioning the practice. “It was consumer-driven and you started seeing bottles saying ‘no coloring added,’” he says.

So even though the issue is moot for the majority of consumers, spirits brands still have to address it if they care about their most engaged fans. The conversation ultimately boils down to the broader issue of transparency, which has driven much of the consumer conversation in food and drink in the past few decades. People want to know what they’re putting in their bodies, and when brands don’t disclose that, mistrust can grow.

Piecemeal efforts from individual brands can be a workable approach, if they’re allowed to share information openly — something every category can currently do except for tequila. Potentially more effective are industry-wide moves like the one taking shape in Cognac. But the biggest game-changer would be mandated reporting from regulatory authorities like the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB).

The agency is currently considering a proposal to add certain nutrition facts to alcoholic beverages, similar to those found on food, including major allergens and calories per serving. But it stops short of requiring an actual ingredients list, and any public rollout is likely years away, if it ever occurs at all. For now, consumers looking for full transparency about a given spirit are largely at the mercy of individual brands. Those that talk openly about ingredients like additives serve as an example to others.

“I would love to see more transparency in Cognac,” Pasquet says. “We work for that day and night.”

bon appétit: How One Man’s Obsession with Fruit Created the UK’s Most Exquisite Spirits

Barney Wilczak and his tiny distillery are bottling the wildness of the orchard.

BY OSAYI ENDOLYN

May 12, 2025

“The fruit is coming.”

The urgent phone call that Barney Wilczak anticipates typically comes in the middle of the night. The caller is one of his local farmer partners who has just walked their orchards to touch, smell, and taste the fruit. The brief exchange notifies Wilczak that the quince, perry pears, blood oranges, raspberries, or damson plums destined for distillation are ready to harvest. A distiller of groundbreaking eaux de vie, Wilczak describes his work as being “in service to the fruit.” Part of that service is to represent the fruit at its highest level of flavor, to harness its essence. So the processing must begin right away. Wilczak takes the farmer’s call as his cue, rises in the early darkness, and prepares to receive by the truckload literal tons of fruit.

Wilczak built Capreolus Distillery in 2016, on the same property as his childhood home in Cotswold, southwest England. His eaux de vie have an almost unnerving ability to transport the drinker to those abundant fields. The region is known for its endemic fruits, many of which don’t appear in other parts of the world. The name Capreolus refers to the deer that frequent Wilczak’s garden. “They’re the most beautiful native deer we have and they’re so ephemeral,” he says. “You see them and then they disappear. It felt apt, as we try to capture things that only last for moments.”

That late night/early morning phone call from Wilczak’s farmer collaborator wouldn’t have been a surprise. Wilczak firmly believes that production revolves entirely around the wisdom of the trees and the people who cultivate them, not marketing drives or quarterly sales targets. Every piece of fruit that arrives at the distillery is hand-sorted to check for outliers of “too much softness or spring,” before it is hand-pressed and guided through distillation and bottling.

Hand-sorting gooseberries at Capreolus. Photograph By Barney Wilczak

You might say that Wilczak practices a type of conservation: His farming supports much-needed biodiversity, and drinkers around the world can experience hyperlocal plants they wouldn’t otherwise have access to. The quince evokes notes of cinnamon, fig, and dark cherry. It tastes of earth yet bright twig and leaf—to drink these eaux de vie is to be situated in terrain.

“Last year we spent 7.5 hours sorting 700,000 individual raspberries. That’s 3.6 tons,” Wilczak says, with a look of bewilderment. All that fruit, time, and effort across a team of four people, yielded roughly three hundred 375-ml bottles. With a sense of pride and maybe surrender, he adds, “It’s ridiculous.”

Wilczak has fans, if not acolytes, of his so-called ridiculousness. Among them, famed cocktail bartender Ryan Chetiyawardana, professionally known as Mr. Lyan, who features Capreolus eaux de vie at Seed Library in London’s Shoreditch, Washington D.C. bar Silver Lyan, and Super Lyan in Amsterdam. He credits Dawn Davies of The Whisky Exchange for introducing him to the spirit. “It was revolutionary to try an eau de vie that represents my favorite fruits as a UK native,” Chetiyawardana says. “Barney sees the whole essence of the plant as not just a biological creature, but what it stands for. I was flabbergasted.”

A view of the orchard

Preserving nature in the bottle

Wilczak found distilling through his love of nature. As a student he thrived in botany and biology, but couldn’t make sense of working nonstop in a lab. He pivoted to study photography and specialized in conservation. In brief, he became a plant photojournalist. “I was photographing habitat restoration on six continents, building media libraries for botanic gardens in 118 countries.” Alongside his studies, he developed a hobby for making ciders, exploring the technicalities of distillation and méthode traditionnelle, a style of winemaking that involves a secondary fermentation in the bottle. The leap to distilling was not a huge jump. “It all comes down to a love for plants.”

As he approached age 30, Wilczak experienced “a bit of a life crisis.” He didn’t want to only document plants for visual archives. He wanted to promote the growth and appreciation of those plants for others. “I realized that people are obsessed with varietal differences in wine, but it’s also true of every single fruit.”

When Wilczak launched Capreolus, his bank account was overdraft by eight pounds, but supported by his partner Hannah Morrison, whose taste became imperative to Wilczak’s process. Everything was once done by hand and muscle, though he’s since acquiesced to buying a mill. He committed to work with farmers within a fifty-mile radius of his home-distillery, and just recently purchased meadowland to plant quince trees, which will soon bring that particular eau de vie production within range (it was previously the lone outlier).

His focus on local farmers came down to pay equity. “Early on I was talking to someone in Finland about wild-picked cranberries and they said, ‘We’ll get them to you for 2 euros per kilo.’ I knew that was really really cheap for wild-picked fruit,” he explains. The fruit would be picked in Russia. “What are the labor laws there? What are people getting paid?” Wilczak wanted to work with people he could meet, with operations he could see. “We wanted to pay people a proper wage, focused on farming well,” he says, a nod to the price point of his lineup, which can range from about $90 to $185.

With his local focus, he learned that there was not “a single piece of overlap in flavor or aroma.” The realization inspired him to learn how these individual expressions manifested. He spent about seven years studying fruit distillation practices in epicenters of Austria, Germany, Italy, and France, and translating non-English books on the subject.

After distilling perry pears from 200-year-old 45-foot trees, Wilczak was shocked. The distillation didn’t smell like fruit. “It smelled like sun-warmed bark, ripe and unripe wood, autumnal leaves, and almost like the grass around the trees,” he says. “My self-guided education had a huge focus on a technological, yield-driven way of working, but that robbed the eau de vie of complexity and organic structure,” he continues. “I became interested in making eaux de vie that are truly organic and expressive of where they come from.” That meant becoming dogmatic about respecting the inherent knowledge of the trees and the ecosystems that allowed them to produce such varied fruit. “Suddenly, the eaux de vie started to smell like the orchards.”

Black currant eau de vie in progress. Photograph By Barney Wilczak

Around the world with eaux de vie

In New York City, Jorge Riera, wine director at Frenchette, Le Roc, and the newly revamped Le Veau d’Or, features Capreolus eaux de vie as the finishing touch on leisurely, decadent meals. “It’s mind-blowing,” Riera says. “The delicacy, the finesse, the floral notes that Barney gets out of it. I was blown away.”

Riera first tasted the lineup in 2018 in Vienna, Austria, at Karakterre, a 14-year-old natural wine conference celebrating producers primarily from central and eastern Europe (the festival now has a NYC iteration going into its fourth year). Riera immediately called his importer, PM Spirits, to see about getting Capreolus to the States. “With the raspberry eau de vie, you feel the fuzz of the fruit in the nose,” he goes on. “They work with nature and it’s beautiful. But for me, I see the result at the dining table. I see the emotions from people immediately.”

One of the more evocative eaux de vie is the damson plum, a quintessential British fruit. “Old recipes of distilling damson take on this slightly jammy, tart note,” Chetiyawardana says. “Barney manages to capture the smell of the blossoms as you walk past the bush. It has that white flower elegance. The purple fruit notes encapsulate the tartness of the skin and the yield of the flesh. It pulls through to this wonderful fresh almond note from the kernel.”

For this writer, Capreolus eaux de vie feels like falling into a safe, warm memory you didn’t know you had. The damson plum is an example of Wilczak’s conservation ideology: “No one knows what to do with a cooking plum; it’s something we’ve lost from our vocabulary. We can let these things slip away. But if we want those genetics as a resource given changing climate, we have to give a justification for them to be grown.” His exquisite bottles make for a compelling reason. The only experience better than sipping Capreolus is to share it with someone as willing to be moved as you.

Best Blanco Tequila: Why We Only Make Blanco

Best blanco tequila, and who actually makes it

We are not making tequila. I am not making tequila. PM Spirits is not making tequila. A lot of brands are not making tequila. It's being made for them by people who are really gifted and whose job it is to make your product.

Azul Force, at $34.99, is the bottle under $50. Punch picked it blind in 2025.

You choose out of four formulas

I have a hard time with the idea of slapping a label on something that has been pre made for you. You choose out of four formulas, and you go with it.

If I come at you and I say we did this and we worked on it, and then you asked me four more questions, and you realize there's three formulas. This distillery, they do three things. They sell it to a hundred people. You just have a white label on this. It doesn't feel right.

When I started in spirits, what was mind bending to me is when I was buying stuff from retail back in New York, when I moved to the US, most of the stuff that was sitting on shelves would be brands. There was few artisanal thing that I could think of, and you had no idea who made that.

What the label does not tell you

We think that the consumer, the person who cares about booze, will care about a product that expresses somebody's vision, a sense of place, that expresses the raw material that it's made from. And that can't translate if the stuff is covered in additives. If that color is not real, if there's a bunch of sugar added to it, if there's a bunch of flavoring, what's the point. These products, they already exist anyway.

It'd be easier if it was just some brand, and we put no info whatsoever on the label. And that's easy.

The amount of labels that I see that read or feel like a LinkedIn update, where you wanna shoot yourself when you read that. I don't want to do that. I'm not into that.

I don't want to have some marketing stuff that says it tastes like cloud on a breezy night.

Whatever is relevant to the flavor profile of that thing, whatever are the main parameters, should be on the damn thing. It's a self contained product where you should have everything that you need. If you're a retailer, you should not have to know anything about it. And if you tasted it and you look at the back, you knew more than most people.

On the very first batch, that thing was made with three ingredients. There was nothing added to it. And so we voiced it on the label.

What transparency costs

I ended up being told when agaves were harvested, when they were ripe. They were ripe at five years and seven months. That doesn't sound bad to me. But the back label says agave age six year. So now we got the stuff that's in a bottle, that stuff is labeled, that stuff is in boxes, but it can't leave Mexico.

The next step is that we need to remove the labels on everything, print new labels that says five year, and label everything.

We want to do the right thing. We don't want to cut corners. We want to be transparent. And it ends up, we're learning right now, that it just takes more time. And it takes more and more money.

The reason why we created that little niche in the artisanal spirits game here in the US is because we have always followed the hard path. We're the people who are tasked to import and wholesale the shit that's hard to sell. And we've been doing it for 15 years. I don't see why we should be trying to go down an easier route.

Why blanco, and no reposado or anejo

There's something about agave, there's something about tequila, where there's this elegance, the floral quality of the aroma, that can really be crushed super quick by the wood.

I would bet dinner that there are a lot of very overlooked, poorly aged tequilas out there. Because as soon as you start to have a pile of casks, if you're not tasting them every week or every two weeks, the stuff is going to suck pretty quickly.

I would like to do that, but I don't think it's wise. The reason is that I really want to be able to bottle something that I think is at its peak. If we were starting to do repo or anejo, I need to be there every month to go and taste, because I don't think you can do that from a distance.

We tend to think from a tequila standpoint that a distillery can make amazing blanco, an amazing reposado, an amazing anejo. I don't necessarily think it's true. An amazing repo or anejo is not necessarily a fantastic blanco that has been put in the barrel.

The distillate will be such that coming out of the still it might be less pretty, but it's made in a way where the distiller knows that after X years in a cask such and such thing will happen, and that product will become incredible. But initially it's not as pretty and elegant and appealing as it could be.

I think that some distilleries could make amazing anejo but doesn't necessarily mean that their blanco is superior.

40 or 55

My team and I were discussing what should be the proof of this stuff. Whoever is going to buy things from us is enough of a grownup to add his own water.

At the same time, I understand the idea that 40% is a little more approachable. And also it might be cheaper. Since we couldn't decide what the proof should be, we decided to do both.

The 55, it's distilled at 55. The 40 is the 55 brought down to 40 alcohol. The 55 is just distilled. It's the distillation proof.

One oven at a time

Most people that we started to talk to asked us this question. They were like, how many bottles do you want? What's the quantity? And I had no clue about quantities.

So I looked at the process. And what felt logical to me was that the unit of production seemed to be the oven. One oven has a specific content, a specific weight of agave that it can fit depending on the size of the oven.

We started to do that, the single oven type stuff, not to be fancy, not to create a category that doesn't exist. You want to do something, you look at what is the logical unit as far as quantity, and you look at if you can afford it.

Only 30 tons of agave. The cooking is 20 hours under heat, and then an additional 20 hours where the agave is rested. The agave cogollo is removed, so the bitterness is gone. Then the agaves are shredded.

The yeast is a proprietary yeast that the distillery is using. Fermentation time is something that we played around with a little bit, understanding that the speed and duration of fermentation is something that will impact tremendously the flavor profile of this stuff.

Right now fermentation is 72 hours. And then there's an additional 48 hours where the stuff is resting.

You do an oven and depending on the proof of the stuff, you have anywhere between four and 6,000 bottles.

We would like to do two ovens a year. On paper, two batches a year. In reality it probably is 1.3 batches a year, and they usually land at the worst possible time that you can think of.

The people who make it

This entire game is a people thing. It's a network thing. You want to be working with like minded individuals.

That distillery 1468 is owned by two women. We started with them in 2020.

It makes a lot of sense to shed the light on that distillery and the people making the juice.

He was the person that I initially was introduced to via Jose Luis. He was the owner of Grupo Tequilero Mexico. He was the person who I started to interact with and learn from when it comes to tequila. He is the person who was heading over to Mexico for our first batch and the trials that we did. He unexpectedly passed away after a heart surgery that didn't go too well at the beginning of 2022, and we ended up releasing our second batch only a few months after he had passed. Now his daughter Esmeralda is running the business.

So we wanted to pay homage to the guy.

His name, Juan Antonio, is on the label.

How we decide what to put our name on

Never had a plan. In 15 years we still don't have a plan.

Whatever booze we're involved with, we want it to click, we want to have a personality. I want that stuff to talk to me. I want my brain for some reason be like, oh shit, this is cool.

The second aspect is understanding how that stuff's made, understanding whether corners are cut or not, because we're not interested in selling stuff that's been manufactured.

Over the years we added a third tenet, which is not only should the stuff talk to the brain, have a sense of place and be additive free. But it also should be made by good people, people you want to work with, good humans.

There is only one way that you can possibly sell a product that no one knows about, that nobody needs, that is not a brand that anybody has heard about. It needs to be good.

Words that stopped meaning anything

A lot of people using the word curation. It's like small batch nowadays, it doesn't mean anything anymore.

The goal is not to grow this PM Tequila, which it's not even a brand. There's no brand name if you think about it. The goal is to use this as a business card. It's one of many business cards that says, this is what we believe in, and this is what we're about.

People tend to drink less. When they drink, they want to make it count. They're not going to drink shit.

The agave spirits PM imports

PM Spirits Blanco Tequila

NOM 1468, one oven at a time, no additives. Blue Weber agave at four to six years, around 35 brix. 700ml at 40%, and a still strength bottling at 55%.

Azul Force Blanco

Azul Force exists because we were looking for a blanco tequila priced for cocktails, made to our exact specifications.

Agaves Selectos Corona, NOM 1615, in Tonaya, southwest of Guadalajara. Estate grown Blue Weber at around six years and 24 brix, cooked in autoclave. No horno and no diffuser. Wild fermented on ambient yeast for three to seven days, distilled on a 30 plate column, proofed with aquifer water treated by reverse osmosis.

1 litre at 40%. It sells for $34.99.

We've been very proud to import Cinco Sentidos as we're proud to import Neta.

Cinco Sentidos

This is a project by Jason Cox. Jason has an extremely good palate. He has a very clear vision of what he wants to achieve.

Cinco Sentidos is Jason touring Mexico to find extremely good and very different mezcals wherever they are made. Five regions, five expressions, five master distillers. The maestros are named, not blended away: Alberto Martinez, Atenogenes and Jose Garcia, Tio Tello Perez Ramos, Delfino Tobon Mejia, Tio Pedro Hernandez Arellanes, Amando Alvarez, and the bottlings of La Coleccion Mixteca. More at drink5sentidos.com.

You have casks that are in the jungle. You're literally walking and there's trees, and boom, you have casks that are stacked up just under a tree, and it's incredible. And the flavor profile of the things is really remarkable.

Neta

Neta is Niki Nakazawa and Max Rosenstock. Neta means truth, the real deal. More at netaspirits.com.

Neta is a study in terroir within one delimited community, a little like studying terroir by drinking Burgundies from appellations that sit close to each other.

Since 2012 they have worked with more than twenty small family producers in the southern valleys and hills of Miahuatlan, Oaxaca, many of them in the cooperative Grupo Productor Logoche. Logoche is a village of 110 people, and every release is bottled and labelled there by members of the community.

Every bottling is a single batch, meaning one oven or one harvest. Nothing is blended, homogenised or standardised to a set ABV, and everything is bottled at still strength, so the quantity of each release is whatever that oven yielded.

They publish the soil types of the plots the agave grew in: tierra colorada, tierra blanca, tierra negra, and cascajo, which is roughly 60 percent stone and the one maguey likes most because the roots can grow better.

Ixcateco

Through Jason we ended up importing Ixcateco, which originally was a papalome mezcal under the Cinco Sentidos brand. Jason very kindly helped the mezcalero develop his own brand.

The full agave range is on the PM Spirits national import portfolio.

What Punch found when they tasted it blind

In April 2025 the Punch editors blind tasted 21 blanco tequilas priced at $50 or less and picked five that were additive free. Azul Force was one of the five. Their summary of the five: complex, affordable and additive-free bottles for sipping and mixing.

Their panel called it mellow, with layers of complexity that feel exceptionally integrated, and described it as one of the better values on the market. They listed it at $32 for the litre at the time. It sells for $34.99 now.

Punch puts it at roughly 70 percent of all tequila containing undisclosed additives.

The full piece is The Best Blanco Tequilas Under $50, by Punch Staff, 23 April 2025.

Where to buy

For wholesale orders, email info@pmspirits.com or call 347 689 4414. Out of state wholesalers can go straight to our US Market Manager, Meryl Cocuzza, at meryl@pmspirits.com. All the ways to reach us are on the contact page.

The full list of what we bring into the United States is on the PM Spirits national import portfolio, chosen by Nicolas Palazzi.

PUNCH: The Best High-End Spirits for Cocktails

This year, we polled more than 25 bartenders across the country for their favorite high-end spirits to use in cocktails. While several of last year’s top-shelf picks are still highly favored, some exciting newcomers have emerged, along with a few trends: spirits that blur the line between categories (like Scotch aged in ex-rum barrels) seem to be on the rise, in addition to well-made flavored spirits (like a mezcal distilled with mango).

After sifting through the responses, we compiled the most popular choices in each category, plus some standout, impassioned recommendations. Here’s what surveyed bartenders had to say.

White Rum / Cane Spirit

Most popular: Clairins from The Spirit of Haiti

Recent years have seen a great white rum expansion, in which interesting, boldly flavored options have become more variable and more available stateside than ever before. Clairins from The Spirit of Haiti were most commonly mentioned here, particularly the Vaval, a floral and herbaceous bottling, and the Le Rocher, which Adler says is “similar to agricole-style rums, but with an increased funkiness and grassiness. The distillery also uses a percentage of dunder, the residual backwash in each batch, which makes it heavier on the palate with a light smokiness.” Also, these bottlings are still fairly affordable. “Like a lot of rums, some might not call these ‘top-shelf,’” notes David E. Yee, bar manager at Cobra in Columbus, Ohio, but that’s “because they’re radically underpriced.”

Aged Rum

Most popular: Hampden Estate

Tulloch sums it up: “Hampden Estate is high-octane, intense and makes a damn good Daiquiri.” While many surveyed bartenders recommend serving this spirit neat to fully appreciate it, Hampden Estate also shines in cocktails where it plays the starring role, like a rum Old-Fashioned. “I love a good high-ester Jamaican rum and this one ranks high on my list,” says Flowers. “Give me overripe banana, tropical fruit, terroir goodness!”

Overproof Rum

Most popular: Rivers Royale Grenadian Rum

Dennison and Flowers recommend this rum, especially in Daiquiris. “Rum, lime and sugar may sound simple, but with Rivers Royale Grenadian Rum, it is complex,” says Flowers. “It has the grassy, briny flavor of sugarcane juice rum that I love, but it also has herbaceous, tropical fruit notes that play exceptionally well in cocktails.” 

BBC: 'Is it for a day or four years?' Tariff uncertainty spooks small businesses

Donald Trump's talk of applying new tariffs to goods from America's biggest trade partners has sparked months of uncertainty for business owners.

On Saturday, the president made good on his threats, ordering a new 25% tax on shipments from Mexico and Canada and raising existing tariffs on goods from China by 10%.

But that has not stopped the questions.

"Is it for a day, is it a political flex or is it something that will last for four years?" asked Nicolas Palazzi, the founder of Brooklyn-based PM Spirits. He runs a 21-person business that imports and sells wine and spirits, about 20% of which come from Mexico.

Trump's orders set in motion threats that the president has discussed for months, striking at shipments from America's top three trade partners, which together account for more than 40% of the roughly $3tn goods the US imports each year.

Canadian oil and other "energy resources" will face a lower 10% rate. But otherwise, there will be no exceptions, the White House said.

Trump said the tariffs were intended to hold Canada and Mexico accountable for promises to address illegal immigration and drug trafficking.

The measures go into effect on 4 February and are to remain in place "until the crisis is alleviated," according to the orders.

If the plans were not a surprise, they still presented a potentially stunning blow to many businesses, especially for those in North America. The three countries have become tightly linked economically after decades of free trade under a treaty signed in the 1990s, known then as Nafta and updated and renamed under the Trump administration to USMCA.

The growth of mezcal in the US, brought in by businesses like Palazzi's, has been part of this shift.

Since 2003, consumption of tequila and mezcal has roughly tripled, increasing at a rate of more than 7% each year, according to Distilled Spirits Council, a trade group.

Overall since the 1990s, trade in spirits between the US and Mexico has surged by more than 4,000% percent, said the organisation, which issued a statement after the president's announcement warning that the tariffs would "significantly harm all three countries".

For months, Palazzi has been fielding nervous questions from his suppliers in Mexico, who are typically small, family owned businesses and may not survive if the tariffs are prolonged.

If it sticks, he said the 25% tax on the bottles of mezcal, tequila and rum he brings in will push up prices - and sales will drop.

"Definitely this is going to impact the business negatively. But can you really plan? No," he said. "Our strategy is roll-with-the-punches, wait and see and adapt to whatever craziness is going to unfold."

Economists say the hit from the tariffs could push the economies of Mexico and Canada into recession.

Ahead of the announcement, Dan Kelly, president of the Canadian Federation of Independent Businesses, described the looming tariffs from the US, and expected retaliation, as "existential" for many of his members.

"Look, we get that the government has got to respond in some fashion …. But at the same time we urge the government to use caution," he said, comparing tariffs on imports to chemotherapy: "It poisons your own people in order to try and fight the disease."

"It's going to have an effect everywhere," said Sophie Avernin, director of De Grandes Viñedos de Francia in Mexico, noting that many Americans own Mexican alcohol brands and Modelo beer is actually owned by a Belgian company.

Trump, who has embraced tariffs as a tool to address issues far removed from trade, has dismissed concerns about any collateral damage to the economy in the US.

But analysts have warned the measures will weigh on growth, raise prices and cost the economy jobs - roughly 286,000, according to estimates by the Tax Foundation, not including retaliation.

Those in the alcohol business said the industry had already been struggling to emerge from the shadow of the pandemic and its after-shocks, including inflation, which has prompted many Americans to cut back on dining out and drinking.

Smaller firms, who typically have less financial cushion and ability to swallow a sudden 25% jump in cost, will bear the brunt of the disruption.

"I'm pretty frustrated," said California-based importer Ben Scott, whose nine-person business Pueblo de Sabor brings in brands from Mexico such as Mal Bien and Lalocura.

"There's just a huge cost that's going to affect so many people in ways other than they're paying a couple bucks more for a cocktail, which doesn't sound like a tragedy."

Fred Sanchez has spent years pushing to expand his business, Bad Hombre Importing, a small California-based importer and distributor of Mexican agave-based spirits like Agua del Sol, and was recently working on deals in New York and Illinois.

But his potential partners started hesitating as Trump's tariff talk ramped up last year.

Now, instead of expanding, he is contemplating selling off his stock of liquor and possibly shutting down. He said he had little capacity to absorb the jump in costs and saw little scope for raising prices in the current economy.

"25% is just not something that we can realistically pass onto the consumer," he said.

Sanchez said he believed that Trump might be using tariffs as a negotiating tactic, and the tax could be short-lived. Still, for his business, damage is already done.

Financial Times: Make mine a Stinger… why cognac cocktails are trending

Forget the Spicy Margarita – here’s what the mixologists will be ordering at the bar

The Spicy Margarita is everywhere – in plenty of bars I know it now accounts for half of all drinks sales. But what would we all be drinking if the bar world’s top tastemakers had their way? In my survey, brandy won by a landslide, with cognac, Armagnac and apple-based calvados all getting plenty of votes. “Cognac is the king of spirits, it’s got so much going on,” says Jake Burger, proprietor of Portobello Star in London’s Notting Hill. He recommends the 19th-century Cognac Cocktail – essentially an Old Fashioned made with brandy – “which is what we’d all be drinking today if phylloxera hadn’t wiped out all the French vineyards and turned America into a whiskey-drinking culture”. For a really authentic Cognac Cocktail, he says, use Sazerac de Forge & Fils cognac, which is modelled on pre-phylloxera recipes (£121, masterofmalt.com). Under the £80 mark he also likes Merlet XO, Fanny Fougerat Iris Poivré XO and Prunier VSOP. Armagnac comes highly recommended by Sipsmith co-founder and master distiller Jared Brown and Sebastian Tollius, beverage director of Eleven Madison Park’s new Clemente Bar. “It’s rustic, full of character and versatile,” says Tollius. He favours the small batch bottlings by French specialist PM Spirits (from $62.50, pmspirits.com). “Perfect [as a sub for whiskey] in classics like Manhattans or as a stand-in for cognac in a Vieux Carré.” Ennismore’s head of bars Robert Simpson makes the case for calvados, “which has flavours from crisp fresh fruit through to apple strudel”. Punch editor Talia Baiocchi agrees: “I love a simple calvados and tonic.”

PM Spirits VS Overproof VS Bas Armagnac, $62.50 for 75cl, pmspirits.com

Liqueurs were another strong performer – and particularly crème de menthe. Which would have shocked me had I not, uncharacteristically, found myself ordering a Stinger in the Spy Bar at Raffles London just recently. This minty digestif sees cognac laced with white mint liqueur; it’s typically shaken and served “up” in a coupe or over crushed ice. Spy Bar makes its own After Eight-infused crème de menthe, but Tempus Fugit (£31.50 for 70cl, bbr.com) is also excellent. Another liqueur due a revival, according to drinks writer and co-owner of the Pacific Standard in Portland, Oregon, Jeffrey Morgenthaler, is the monastic nightcap Bénédictine DOM (£31.25, thewhiskyexchange.com) – he favours the “sweet, peppery, herbal French liqueur” in a rye whiskey-based La Louisiane cocktail. NoMad London’s Leo Robitschek, meanwhile, pleads the case for amaretto, particularly in a sour. If there’s a common theme in all of this, it’s the after-dinner drink. Perhaps 2025 will see the red-hot Margarita make way for something a bit more smouldering. 

Stinger

Some might find this old-school 3:1 formula a bit heavy on the crème de menthe. If in doubt, start with less and then work your way up.  60ml VSOP cognac or armagnac 20ml white crème de menthe (such as Tempus Fugit) Method: Shake with ice and then either strain into a cocktail glass, sans ice, or serve over crushed ice in a rocks glass. 

Bloomberg: The 15 Best New Bottles I Tried in 2024, From $26 to $26,000

Season’s greetings, spirits sippers! It’s Brad Japhe, the resident expert on the subject, reporting for duty. As is customary this time of year, I’m presenting my annual list of the absolute best bottles I encountered over the past 12 months. The stable of contenders was crowded in 2024: Of some 322 new expressions sampled, I counted no less than three dozen deserving of effusive praise. Sadly, some of those offerings are just so painfully pricey and/or excruciatingly allocated that I couldn’t, in good conscience, include them here.

Instead, my choices embody a wide variety of liquid across all categories and price points. Make no mistake, you will see bottles fetching four- or even five-figure sums—entries are organized in order of increasing cost—but it’s all relatively available for purchase. You won’t need an estate planner to broker acquisition.

But before we get to the big reveal, let’s recap the year’s major headlines. Beyond spotlighting the shape of the industry in 2024, these news items hint at where we’re headed in the months ahead.

For one thing, people aren’t paying as much for rare whiskey. A recent report from the financial advisory firm Noble & Co. indicated that the value of auctioned scotch cratered by 40% in 2024. But that hasn’t slowed the trend of formerly shuttered “ghost” distilleries rising from the grave across the Scottish landscape, as I reported this summer.

Tariffs proposed by the incoming administration mean your favorite tequila could effectively become 25% more expensive in the year ahead. And a separate trade war with the UK could persuade domestic scotch consumers to experiment with single malts from emerging markets such as India or New Zealand.

Or, perhaps they’ll start exploring American single malt, since the category is finally going to be recognized by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau, after more than eight years of lobbying efforts.

But enough speculating about what’s coming. Here are my best bottles of 2024.

Alambique Serrano Rum Blend #5 — $70.Source: Vendor

Alambique Serrano Rum Blend #5

There’s more than just mezcal coming out of the highlands of Oaxaca. This artisanal brand from the steep hillsides of Santa María Tlalixtac specializes in world-class rum. In fact, you’ll be hard-pressed to find sugarcane distillate anywhere drenched in as much complexity as this 65.9%-ABV spiced-banana bomb. It’s a 50-50 blend of column spirit, aged for 27 months in ex-bourbon casks, with pot still spirit aged for 19 months in new French oak. Cut it with a splash of water to extend a tobacco and toasted almond-toned finish. Or knock it back neat, if you dare. ($70)

Hampden Great House 2024 Jamaican Rum — $130.Source: Vendor

Jamaica’s holy house of funk never disappoints when it comes to full-bodied expressions, brimming with over-ripened fruit. Although the exact recipe of this annual limited release shifts each year, it invariably involves a blend of rums that epitomize the brand’s signature style. This time around it finds form in a 57%-ABV sipper that wows with an initial wave of marmalade and cranberry relish, revealing more tropical fruit undertones as it warms in the dram. ($130)

Gear Patrol: The Buffalo Trace of Rum Is Still Cheap and Easy to Find. For Now

A bourbon lover’s guide to the best spirit you’re not drinking yet.

Early adopters have long prophesied rum’s rise. Surely, it would only be a matter of time until bourbon drinkers would be drawn in by the two drinks’ similarities.

They were right in one sense but wrong in another. Bourbon whiskey shares much with rum but whiskey fanatics will only convert if given a pressing reason to. And ironically, it’s bourbon’s own swelling popularity that’s provided one.

There are other, perhaps even better, reasons the modern bourbon-whiskey drinker might be tempted by the rum world’s easy-going nature. However, the simplest argument comes down to numbers: if you could buy Pappy van Winkle for $130 right now, would you?

Bourbon whiskey’s popularity has reached the point where many coveted bottles — including Pappy, not to mention most of the Buffalo Trace lineup — are effectively unobtainable.

By contrast, rum offers more: varieties, flavors, eccentricities and, critically, availability. Step back and compare the breadth of flavor profiles in the rum world to that of bourbon — or even whiskey, bourbon’s parent category — and rum is the clear winner.

This is mostly due to one of rum’s unique traits: decentralization. Where bourbon, Scotch and spirits like tequila and cognac are, to different degrees, bound by regulation, geography and strict definitions, rum is a loose cannon.

Make it with molasses, you’ve got rum. Make it with fresh sugarcane, and you still have rum. Age it (or don’t), blend it with spices (or not), filter out the color (or add it) … it’s all rum.

With that in mind, here are the best rums for an ex-bourbon drinker to start with — from the true Pappy of rum to the Bacardi you should be drinking.

The Buffalo Trace of Rum

The Real McCoy Barbados Rum 12 Year

• Origin: Barbados

• ABV: 40%

• Price: $61+

Reliably excellent, well-made and expertly matured, The Real McCoy 12-year-old rum is named after a famous Prohibition-era rum smuggler whose product became known as “the real McCoy” due to the number of fakes at the time.

Today, it’s sourced from the Barbados-based Foursquare Distillery, the rum producer closest to capturing the enormous pull of Buffalo Trace Distillery in the bourbon world.

The Pappy of Rum

Great House Distillery Edition Single Jamaican Rum

• Origin: Jamaica

• ABV: 57% (2024)

• Price: $135+

Hampden Estate has been making rum on a near-continuous basis since 1779, and its Great House blend (released every year since 2019) has quickly earned a reputation for intense, rich flavor and a healthy dose of rum funk.

For longtime rum drinkers, it represents rum’s mighty potential. For former bourbon lovers, it offers a glimpse into a category not yet destroyed by hype magnets.

The “Made in USA” Rum

Privateer Rum Distiller’s Drawer

• Origin: USA

• ABV: Varies

• Price: $70+

This top-notch rum comes from an odd place: America. By most accounts, Privateer is the best in the country — and it’s not made anywhere near the tropics, either.

Based in Massachusetts, Privateer’s Distiller’s Drawer series offers rum from barrels hand-selected by its master distiller, and they’re some of the most whiskey-like bottles in the category. Expect oak, vanilla, burnt sugar and more classic bourbon notes.

The White Dog of Rum

Clairin Casimir

• Origin: Haiti

• ABV: Varies

• Price: ~$50

If you want to go straight to the bottom of the rabbit hole, Clairin is a good way to do it. It’s usually unaged, so it has more in common with white whiskey than bourbon proper. It’s also made with wild sugarcane and dunder, which is a bit like the sour mash of the rum world (but used far less frequently than its whiskey counterpart).

All this lends Clairin a deep funkiness that blends with the base spirit to invoke whiskey, mezcal, natural wine and rum all at once.

Forbes: Ho Ho Ho And A Bottle Of Rum

These fine aged rums from all over the Caribbean are perfect to... well, you COULD gift them for the holidays, but it’s more fun to sip them yourself.

It’s holiday time, and that means it’s time to light the tree, deck the halls, fire up the menorah... and also time to put lots of bottles of alcohol into gaily decorated gift bags to hand off to assorted loved ones, friends, business associates, doormen, and so on. But here’s a little secret — while you’re picking up bottles of Johnnie Walker Blue Label or Tanqueray or Veuve Cliquot or any of the usual gifty standbys, you can also pick up a bottle of delicious rum and — wait for it – take it home to drink yourself. What’s stopping you? And I don’t know about where you live, but here in New York City, a day of navigating around slow-walking tourists and harried, half-sprinting natives at holiday time calls for a little liquid reward.

Rum, even the fanciest of fancy bottles, isn’t necessarily the ideal gift. People think of it as sweet stuff, fit only for mixing into frozen daiquiris and the like. That implicit bias prevents a lot of folks from sitting down with good aged rums and really giving them a chance. If they did, they’d find they aren’t only not sweet, but they’re as complex and multi-layered as the finest whiskies or cognacs. But since you already know that, why not save the good stuff for yourself? And the best part is, since rum is so misunderstood, most of the really good ones, even rare bottles, can be had for a fraction of the cost of a rare bourbon or single malt. So you’ll be splurging on yourself without blowing up your bank account. Win-win!

Here are a few of my favorite rums that have hit store shelves in the last few months, all of which are worth your time. Some will be harder to find than others — and a couple will be all but impossible to track down. But I hope you’ll see that as a challenge rather than an impediment.

Hampden Estate's Great House has been standing since 1779; the rums in the blend are slightly younger.

Hampden Estate Great House 2024 (57% ABV, $130). The GOAT of Jamaican rum distilleries? That’s a tall order, but Hampden Estate is certainly in the running for greatest rum distillery you’ve (probably) never heard of. Operating since 1753, the estate’s pot-still rums were used exclusively in blends until 2018, when the world could finally sample its estate-aged rums unadulterated. The Great House series, launched in 2019, is an annual limited edition using different blends of the distillery’s eight marques, or recipes, of rum. 2024’s blend skews a little younger than usual, with the vast majority of it aged four years or less. But aging in Jamaica’s tropical heat makes things move quickly, and this is a terrific, fully mature rum. The nose is redolent of overripe banana, sweet apple, and a hint of tar; on the palate, sweet notes of pineapple, coconut and vanilla are met by a dry, peppery spice. The finish is lingering and warm, with notes of tobacco and dark chocolate. A fine introduction to Hampden if you haven’t tried it before, and a snazzy addition to the collection if you have.

Food & Wine: 7 Cognacs for Sipping, Mixing Into Cocktails, and Gifting, From $50 to $700

Cognac is still one of the most exciting spirits on the market.

Walking into the cellars of the Château de Cognac is as close to time travel as I’ve ever come. The structure traces its roots back to the 10th century, when it was built as a fortress overlooking the Charente River in southwest France; half a millennium later, King François I was born there. Today, it’s home to the Cognac producers Baron Otard and D’Ussé, and the cellars, with their arched ceilings and stacks of age-darkened barrels, feel somehow apart from time.

Still, Cognac is far from stuck in the past. In 2023, Fawn Weaver, spirits-industry powerhouse and founder of Uncle Nearest Premium Whiskey, acquired Domaine Saint Martin in Grande Champagne; the brand is among the few Black-owned Cognac producers, an example of how this ancient region is still evolving.

Cognac is arguably the most famous brandy in the world. It’s a highly regulated spirit, distilled twice in copper pots from wine produced primarily from Ugni Blanc grapes. Other varieties are permitted, but Ugni is king, thanks to its ability to retain its freshness through both fermentation and distillation. Like all wine regions, Cognac is broken up into smaller zones, and each of those six specific crus has its own particular terroir and microclimate that shape the grapes that grow there. 

What’s the Difference Between VS, VSOP, and XO Cognac?

The best Cognacs, like the region itself, seem to both defy and embody the graceful passage of the years. “Not only in the aging of the liquid — but in the fact that Cognac is not traditionally born from a single eau-de-vie. Rather, it is a blend of different estates, ages, and crus,” explains Vincent Chappe, the longtime global ambassador for Bisquit & Dubouché. “Blending a unique and rich Cognac is a complex and delicate art, executed by the master blender to yield a liquid that is an alchemy of time and place."

Blending, in general, is one of the keys to Cognac’s success. And unlike most other spirits, Cognacs can be aged in both dry and humid cellars; in the former, more water evaporates through the porous wood staves, which leaves a different imprint on the liquid inside than those passing their years in damper cellars receive.

As for those letters adorning bottles across brands, they’re simply an indication of the age of the youngest spirit in the blend. VS (Very Special) means at least two years old; VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale), a minimum of four; XO (Extra Old) is a minimum of 10 years.

But it’s important to note that older is not necessarily better. As with all aged spirits, both older and more youthful expressions can be excellent. The key is to drink broadly, across a range of producers and styles — perhaps starting with these seven choices.

Cognac Frapin Cigar Blend XO premier Cru de Cognac Grande Champagne

Layered with character and complexity, this XO comes from estate-grown grapes that were crushed, fermented, distilled, and aged in humid cellars by Frapin. The result is sweet with cooked honey, baked apples, and dried apricots, plus light peppermint and cedar accents.

Seven Fifty Daily: The 9 Best World Whiskeys, According to Beverage Pros

Beverage directors and bartenders pick their favorite whiskey from lesser-known whiskey-producing countries, from a Taiwanese gold standard to a hard-to-find, small batch Spanish single malt

The map of world whiskey has been steadily expanding. In the 2024 World Whisky Awards, over 40 countries competed—twice as many as a decade ago—with entries from Sweden to South Africa. 

Investment has followed. The Diageo-backed drinks business accelerator Distill Ventures took on Australia’s Starward in 2015 and invested $10 million in Denmark’s Stauning Whisky, which launched stateside last year and is fast gaining cult recognition. 

The number of world whiskey cases sold is a fraction of what the big whiskey players produce. In the U.S. alone, 31 million nine-liter cases of American whiskey were sold in 2023; comparably, Taiwan, which produces Kavalan, arguably the leading world whiskey on the market, is home to just two distilleries. But for a contingent of whiskey aficionados, a dram from one of these lesser-known whiskey-producing regions offers an unparalleled sense of discovery—and they could be catalysts for change. 

“As more world whiskeys enter the U.S. market, they will challenge the dominance of traditional categories like bourbon and Scotch by offering distinct alternatives,” says Scott Milne, the director of marketing for Stauning. “The influx of brands signals a coming consumer shift.”

Producers utilize the unique conditions of their home country to innovate, whether that’s in the use of local grains or native wood, or working around weather conditions that are often radically different than in Scotland or Kentucky. And this in turn inspires traditional producers, says whiskey educator and consultant Tracie Franklin. “Not only do we have these unusual countries producing whiskeys that are very much attuned to their climate, agriculture, and their particular flavors, we also have these amazing whiskies that now have the freedom to be more experimental with their production process because the world whiskeys are coming out and blowing flavors through the roof.” 

SevenFifty Daily reached out to bartenders, beverage directors, and whiskey specialists to ask which bottles from lesser-known whiskey-producing countries are worth stocking up on right now. (All whiskeys are listed with suggested retail price per bottle).  

Navazos-Palazzi Malt Whisky ‘Bota Punta,’ Spain; $125

Selected by Neal Bodenheimer, owner and partner, Cure, New Orleans 

“I absolutely love the texture of this Spanish malt whisky,” says Neal Bodenheimer, the owner and partner of New Orleans cocktail bar Cure. “When you combine the texture of a delicate malt whisky with a quality oloroso sherry cask finishing from the sherry whisperers at Equipo Navazos, well, it’s absolutely peerless.” 

Navazos-Palazzi is a partnership between Jesús Barquín and Eduardo Ojeda of Spain’s Equipo Navazos—passionate bottlers of sherry wines—and Nicolas Palazzi’s PM Spirits in Brooklyn. The most recent release is the Bota Punta, a 15-year-old bottling, using casks that were bota punta—at the end of the bottom row of barrels in a solera—and therefore subjected to more air, light, and aeration. With just 900 bottles, it’s highly sought after. “Everyone on the team is super passionate about it,” says Bodenheimer. “It can be hard to get a traditional malt drinker to take a chance on a relatively pricey dram of Spanish malt. But for an exceedingly hard bottle to find it’s a really great deal.” 

PUNCH: Don’t Know Where to Start With Mezcal? Here Are 10 Producers to Know.

In a category facing increased industrialization, these brands are fighting to preserve regional traditions.

In 2023, more than 400 brands of mezcal were exported from Mexico. That doesn’t include the increasing number of producers who are choosing not to certify their spirits, often labeling them “destilados de agave” (“distillates of agave”) instead. With so many options entering the market, figuring out which producers to seek out in order to support economic, environmental and social justice in a category facing increased industrialization (and the troublesome issues that come with it) can feel like an impossible task. 

To help, we’ve compiled a list of brands that are setting a strong example of best practices for others to follow. Many of them are producer-owned, while others source from a variety of producers but have initiatives in place to encourage positive environmental and economic practices and the preservation of regional customs. There are, of course, plenty of other great producers making incredible mezcal in this vein, but consider this list—most of which are widely available across the United States—a strong starting point.

Cinco Sentidos

What started as the house mezcal for El Destilado restaurant in Oaxaca City evolved into an export brand in 2017. Owner Jason Cox has cultivated long-standing relationships with a core lineup of producers in Oaxaca and Puebla during his time living in Mexico. With Cinco Sentidos, he pays above market price for batches and does not pressure producers to meet certain volume demands; it is entirely up to the producers how much they choose to make and sell. Cox also implemented a 10 percent profit-sharing program to help producers invest in everything from basic personal needs to land and distillery infrastructure.

@agavesocialclub - PM Projects destilado de agave

Agave Social Club reviews PM Spirits Project - destilado de agave. Doug has quickly turned @agavesocialclub into one of the most respected agave-centric podcast & social media channels out there.
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